![]() ![]() – Actuate the tip switch and run the starter engine for a few seconds.ĭigital multimeter reading: 4.0 volts +/- 0.5 volts Of the peak voltage adapter to the connector AT 3 (yellow/blue and – Disconnect the connectors AL and AT and apply the measuring tips Anyway here's how to check from the Sensor end, not the ECU end or you'll destroy it.Ĭhecking the pulse generator 950 Adventure/950 Supermoto Possibly if incorrectly routed it melted on the exhaust. well almost certainly in an awkward nook or cranny. It did run but now you have no spark at all - Could there be a problem with the connection from the pickup sensor? This is situated. I don't think you'd like the results with the KTM, but if you do it please share your experience with the OC. They had trouble keeping parts on the bikes (vibration was loosening all the fasteners) and went to a more conventional firing order for the remaining seasons. Ducati actually did this with their 4 cylinder (2 cylinders fired together, 2 more fired 90 degrees later) MotoGP engines for a season. The cylinders will fire 75 degrees apart, then coast 685 degrees before the next pulse. Mess the cam installation up by installing one set on the wrong TDC, and you will have a "Big Bang" twin. Note: The coils actually fire the spark plugs each time the piston comes to TDC, but the engine only fires when there is a compressed fuel/air mixture (ie: every 720 degrees, or every other upstroke of the piston). Hence the slightly lumpy exhaust note of the LC8's. Slightly before (depending on the ignition advance) TDC on the compression stroke cyl #1 fires.Ģ85 degrees of crankshaft rotation later cyl #2 fires (during cyl #1's exhaust stroke).Ĥ35 degrees of crankshaft rotation later cyl #1 fires During cyl #2's intake stroke), and the cycle starts again. ![]() The engine runs in a ccw direction (observed from ignition rotor side) and fires as follows: The cylinders are positioned 75 degrees apart, with cyl #1 being the front cylinder. The LC8 engine's piston rods ride on a common crank journal. Question is,without using the cams as a guide,how do i know when the piston is at the top on the right stroke for TDC on the rear cylinder? I do know that the cam lobes face inwards on the rear cylinder at TDC and outwards on the front cylinder.įYI (just incase you mess up and turn the engine while the cams are out): You won't find this in any KTM manual. I either have no spark at the coils/plugs(i hope it aint the new plugs that are fooked!!:huh ) or i am setting the cams on the wrong stroke?:huh :huh Now here's the problem,the bike is all back together and at one point it did start,ticked over but wouldn't rev out and when it got to 4 bars it simply stopped and refused to start until back down to 3.Īssuming i had the cams a tooth out of spec i went back deep and moved the cam,built up and tried.I must've done this about 8-12 damned times moving each a tooth a time just in case i'd got it slightly out and we know it aint no 5mins job.Īt this point it simply does not start,fire nor nothing.just spins!!:huh :huh I have had my engine out and changed both base gaskets(one at a time).Now i did lock the engine up at TDC and after replacing the head/cylinder,i replaced the cams in what one can only assume is the correct position.I then did the front cylinder. Anyone tell me how i know for certain i am on the right stroke for TDC on the rear cylinder? ![]()
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